Jacksons Chameleon General Info: Adult length up to 14". Chameleons are best known for their ability to change color. This variable allows them to disappear into their environment and communicate with other chameleons. Chameleons are pets that are best viewed and not handled. Most chameleons are very territorial; it is best if either a male/female pair or trio (one male, two females) be kept together or a single male kept by himself. All chameleons are similar in that they hunt with the use of a specialized eyes and tongue. The chameleon's eyes rotate independently of each other to allow them to focus intently upon their prey. Once they prey is in view (and within range) their sticky tongue has the ability to shoot out and select prey up to 1 _ body lengths away. Many chameleons will accept prey right out of their keeper's hand!

Temperature/Humidity: The ideal daytime temperature for Jackson's is between 70 and 75 degrees with a basking area with multiple branches reaching 82 degrees (ideally). There should be multiple branches throughout the habitat to allow for the regulation of body temperature. Nighttime temperatures should drop down to 60-70 degrees. Temperature fluctuations are absolutely necessary and their environment should never be hot and stuffy. This can be achieved with a basking lamp and several climbing branches. The ideal humidity range is 50% or higher. This can be achieved through frequent daily misting. Lighting: Fluorescent ultraviolet light should be provided for 12-14 hours each day.

Feeding/Watering: Jackson's are primarily insectivores (diet consists mainly of insects). Items such as crickets, superworms, waxworms, butterworms, and small mealworms all make great food items. Something to remember when feeding your pet is the gut-loading of the insects. Insects are only nutritious as what they eat, so a diet of leafy vegetables (especially kale), squash, and sweet potatoes should be fed at least 24 hours before being fed to the chameleon. For calcium and mineral supplementation, the crickets should be dusted lightly once weekly with a mineral/calcium powder. Chameleons naturally drink off of leaves after it has rained. Misting the habitat each day will simulate natural rains and the chameleons will lap water from the leaves. You can also set up a drip system on top of the habitat that allows a single drip of water to fall every couple seconds. The drip system works best when the water falls onto a leaf allowing the chameleon to drink at their leisure.

Habitat/Housing: Chameleons are arboreal (primarily tree-dwelling) and need lots of climbing surfaces. Successful permanent maintenance requires at least a 25 gallon terrarium. A screen lid is essential for proper air exchange. The ideal habitat needs to be spacious, well decorated, and well ventilated without being drafty. A screened enclosure will work the best for a habitat. This habitat can have a glass bottom and front with four sides being screen. The combination of a small ficus tree (Ficus benjemina) and silk plants is excellent in providing the security a chameleon needs. The use of other branches is suggested to increase the options of climbing surfaces. As noted in the Temperature/Humidity heading, a basking area is needed. This basking area is best achieved with either an incandescent bulb or spotlight basking bulb being placed at one end of the habitat with a "basking-branch" placed underneath. Remember that the basking area does not need to get any hotter than 90 degrees, so a 60 watt bulb should be the maximum wattage used. Substrate (Bedding): A mixture of Bed-A-Beast covered with moist moss or cage carpet is an ideal substrate for adult chameleon terrariums. The substrate should be kept moist to maintain an even humidity level, but changed regularly to avoid bacterial growth.